Understanding different trouser fits

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Understanding different trouser fits

Pant cuts play a key role in the style and comfort of your outfit. Straight, fitted, or loose, each cut offers a different look and adapts to your body shape.

Tailored fit (straight, flare, single pleat, double pleat)

Most of our suit trousers are crafted with a tailored base, available in straight, pleated (single or double), or flare styles. Pleats—whether single or double—offer greater ease and comfort around the hips and thighs. Flare trousers are defined by a subtly flared hem, unlike straight trousers, which feature a clean, uninterrupted leg line from hip to ankle.

Despite their differences, all these models share key design features:
- A waistband with a raised back construction (also called a ‘haute ceinture’)
- Built-in seam allowances at the waistband and seat, allowing for adjustments at the waist and thighs
- The choice between belt loops or side adjusters, with the latter offering a more refined look when worn without a belt

At Fursac, suit trousers are sold with a drop 7 sizing system. This means the trousers are seven sizes smaller than the matching jacket (for example, a size 48 jacket comes with size 41 trousers). This ratio, selected by our design team, reflects the house’s aesthetic and the silhouettes historically embraced by Fursac. A higher drop generally indicates a more athletic build.

Some trousers are sold separately, allowing you to select your size or add a second pair to your suit. These are available in even-numbered sizes (38, 40, 42, etc.).

Elasticated waist

Our elasticated-waist trousers come in two fits: a straight leg and a slightly wider leg. More casual in nature, these pieces are available in lettered sizes (S, M, L, XL...).

Sportswear base

Our broad selection of sportswear trousers gives you the freedom to play with style across the seasons. You’ll find chinos, cargos, jeans, five-pocket flared trousers, as well as Bermuda shorts and summer shorts. Each piece is designed with a unique construction depending on the collection and seasonal inspiration.
Due to their build and tailoring, these trousers are not suitable for most alterations—except for length, which can be shortened. These models use US sizing (29, 30, 31...).

Adapting your trousers to your body

All our suit trousers come with unfinished hems, allowing you to tailor the leg length to your preference.

Trousers with a raised back waistband include a center-back seam allowance, which can be let out to increase the waist size. There is also an allowance at the rear thigh seam near the inseam—up to an extra 1.5 cm—for added ease if needed. These alterations allow the trousers to be adjusted for a better fit, either larger or smaller.

Please note: Waist and thigh alterations are only possible on trousers with a raised waistband.

For sportswear trousers, only the length can be adjusted.

The cargo trousers

At the end of the 19th century, U.S. soldiers began wearing olive-green trousers. The first version of the cargo trousers saw action during the Spanish-American War. Much like denim in its early days, it served as a durable and affordable work garment.

In 1909, Levi Strauss & Co. started selling it to the general public, offering it in the two classic colors we know today: brown and olive green.

The defining characteristic of cargo trousers is their straight, tapered fit, slightly narrower at the bottom.

Denim

The denim fabric was created in France, in the city of Nîmes, around 1800. It wasn’t until 1873 in San Francisco, USA, that Davis & Levi Strauss crafted the first five-pocket jeans that we know today.

We often overlook the fifth and smallest pocket, but it once had a very specific purpose. Measuring 5 cm wide, it’s stitched inside the right front pocket. Originally, it was designed to hold a pocket watch—round and flat, it fit perfectly in this small space. That’s why it’s also known as the "watch pocket," which was its original function.

The chino

The chino was originally a military trouser. In the 19th century, British soldiers stationed in India became easy targets due to their bright red uniforms, which stood out against the sandy terrain. To solve this problem, a light-colored cotton gabardine trouser was developed locally.

The name "Chino" comes from "China," where the fabric was produced at the time. Later, the Chino was worn by U.S. Army soldiers during World War II in the Pacific. It became a fashion staple when demobilized GIs returned to university, still wearing the trousers supplied by the military.